The Residence Celeste blog

Lake Como in autumn: the Greenway in colour and a slower pace

A view of Lake Como under a cloudy sky, with mountains and a ferry crossing the water

September, October, and the first days of November: why this is the best season for walking, with clearer air and trails at their best, is something we cover in our guide to Lake Como through the seasons. Here is the practical side: what closes, what slows down, and what to pack.

It's also a transition season, with a few things closing over the course of these months: here is what to actually expect, without surprises on arrival.

The trails and the Greenway, with a couple of warnings

We won't give guidance on foliage colour, it shifts year to year with how the temperatures run: anyone wanting the woods already turning can only check on arrival, not book against an exact date.

Autumn rain makes the higher trails more slippery than in other seasons: the Greenway, paved, low-level and fully walkable well into the season, stays the safer choice on the days right after a storm.

The pool closes, the villas slow down

The apartments' pool stays open until the end of October, then closes for the season: staying in November means it won't be there. Villa Carlotta and Villa del Balbianello, checked against their own official sites, keep regular opening hours into the first days of November, then switch to a much reduced winter calendar.

We won't give the exact day that switch happens either, it changes every year: check the FAI and Villa Carlotta sites before planning a visit, not ours.

The lake empties out, gradually

Navigazione Laghi's boats follow the reverse of spring's pattern: sailings thin out gradually as winter approaches, well before reaching the winter's minimum service.

The days grow shorter

From September to November the light fades fast: sunset comes noticeably earlier than in July, so it's worth scheduling walks and boat trips for the first part of the day rather than leaving them for late afternoon. Evenings, on the other hand, work well in the apartments: each one has independent heating, already running on the first cooler nights of late September.

Here too, as in every season, check-in has no time limit: especially useful now, when darkness comes earlier and a travel hiccup weighs more on the schedule.

What to pack

Autumn weather is less settled than summer's, with bright sunny days alternating with heavier rain: a waterproof jacket earns its keep here more than it would in July.

At a glance

  • Pool: open until the end of October
  • Villas (Carlotta, Balbianello): regular opening into early November, then a reduced calendar on the FAI and Villa Carlotta sites
  • Trails and the Greenway: fully walkable, more care needed after rain
  • Boats: sailings gradually thin out heading into winter

For the why of coming in autumn, blossom aside, our guide to Lake Como through the seasons still holds. For the how of organising it, here's the short version: book knowing the pool and villas slow down, pack for rain, and enjoy the shortening days at an easy pace, not a rushed one.

From the blog

Snow-capped Monte Legnone reflected in the waters of Lake Como under a clear sky Lake Como in winter: what stays open, and why the trip is still worth it A lakeside villa and cypress garden on a promontory near Varenna, with the mountains of Lake Como behind Bellagio or Varenna: which one, and how to see both from a single base A sailboat and kayak on Lake Como on a summer day, with a lakeside village in the background Lake Como in summer: the pool, the lake, and how to handle the heat A lakeside garden terrace on Lake Como, with pollarded plane trees along the shore and mountains behind Lake Como in spring: gardens in bloom, trails, and the first days by the water A small passenger ferry crossing in front of a pastel-coloured lakeside village on Lake Como How many days do you need on Lake Como, and when it's worth splitting your stay A tree-lined lawn and lakeside promenade in Como, with a colourful village across the water Lake Como with young children: why the search points north, and when the middle of the lake still works Stone balustrade with pots of red geraniums overlooking the still waters of Lake Como Ten different apartments, only one is yours: how to choose at Residence Celeste Varenna's small harbour on Lake Como, with colourful houses, boats and flowers in the foreground Where to leave the car on Lake Como: the traffic-limited zones that catch drivers out